APA presents the article “Binab: The City that preserves the spirit of Azerbaijan” by Mahammad Rahmanifar as part of the “Explore South Azerbaijan” project.
You can read the previous article of the project here.
Binab city is located 119 kilometers from Tabriz, the center of East Azerbaijan province. Binab city, with an area of approximately 25 square kilometers, is located in the southwest of East Azerbaijan province, on the main Tabriz-Maragha-Kurdistan and Tabriz-West Azerbaijan routes. This city is located on the slopes of Mount Sahand, next to the Sufichay, and on the shores of Lake Urmia. It should be noted that in Iran, according to the administrative territorial division of the country, the South Azerbaijan region is divided into West Azerbaijan, East Azerbaijan, Ardabil, Zanjan, Alborz, Gazvin, and Hamadan provinces (provinces). Binab city is actually considered the center of Binab district (county) and unites 29 villages of this district around it.
According to the 2017 census, the population of Binab city was over 87,000, and the population of Binab district was 129,795. The vast majority of the population of Binab, one of the ancient cities of Azerbaijan, is Shia Muslim and speaks Azerbaijani Turkish.
Its fertile soil, proximity to abundant rivers such as the Sufi River, and the presence of hardworking people who take pride in earning their livelihood through honest labor have made this city one of the greenest and most productive areas in Southern Azerbaijan. Grapes, apples, almonds, walnuts, and more are among the main products of Binab’s orchards. Wheat, onions, and garlic are also widely cultivated in the region.
A brief look at the history of Binab from ancient times to the modern era
Like many cities in our Azerbaijan, the city of Binab also has a very ancient history. However, since no serious and comprehensive research has been conducted on the ancient history of the city of Binab, it is not easy to say anything based on facts. However, if we base our conclusions on the historical artifacts and evidence found in this city, the history and civilization of the city go back six thousand years. Artifacts found in historical places such as Gara Tepe, Gara Goshun, Gara Chubug Tepesi, Gizlar Galasi, Aghajary Tepesi, Sichan Tepesi, Pus Tepesi, the existence of rock architecture in the ancient village of Savr, the Goyunlar and Chakhmaglar caves indicate that these lands were inhabited in prehistoric times. The presence of ancient burial mounds, underground artifacts dating back to the 1st-4th millennium BC, mosques and other ancient monuments from various periods, especially the Safavid period, and the remains of a cemetery from the Mongol Elkhanate (1256-1335) with various Sulus, Naskh, and Kufic inscriptions in these lands indicate that this region has a very ancient history.
Savr Village
No historical monument can prove the region’s ancient past as clearly as the rock architecture in the historic village of Savar. Therefore, it is essential to delve deeper into the story of this remarkable village. Across the world—in places like Cappadocia in Türkiye—we witness examples of ancient rock architecture. However, what sets the rock-architecture villages of Southern Azerbaijan apart is the fact that these villages are still inhabited today. Unlike many similar sites around the world, people continue to live in these stone-carved homes.
The striking rock architecture in Savr village shares many similarities with that of Kandivan village. However, Savr also has certain features reminiscent of Hilavar village. For example, like in Hilavar, the houses in Savr are largely built underground. But unlike Hilavar, Savr, similar to Kandivan, is still inhabited. This means that, unlike Hilavar, the history of Savr has not ended and continues to unfold, much like Kandivan.
The historical village of Savr, located 24 kilometers from the city of Binab, is several thousand years old and is one of the historical and vibrant villages of the East Azerbaijan province. The houses of its inhabitants were dug into the mountain using primitive tools. This village is located on the southern slopes of Mount Sahand, which is considered one of the highest mountains in South Azerbaijan and has cities such as Tabriz and Maragha at its foot, and borders the tourist village of Tutakhana to the north and the villages of the city of Ajabsher to the west. The village is located in a mountainous area with narrow valleys in terms of its natural location. This relief of the village has led to the construction of buildings in the form of stairs and the emergence of rock architecture.
According to archaeologists and historians, this village dates back about 3000-3500 years and is considered a masterpiece of rock architecture. In fact, this village was once an underground village, but over time, its inhabitants built houses above ground. Currently, 27 abandoned underground houses remain in this village, and it is still possible to live in these houses. According to researchers, the creation of houses in the mountains and rocks was for protection from enemies or wild animals. The rocky complex of Savrin is reminiscent of the temples of Mithras due to its architectural form and cave-like appearance. The temples of Mithras were carved into the mountainside and had no other way to get inside, except for a small entrance. However, the houses in this village have rooms, niches, corridors, stables, and special facilities. In addition, the architecture of the houses is such that a communication path is laid from each house to the neighboring house, allowing people to communicate in emergency situations, for example, during an enemy attack or with other families. Some of these houses are two or three stories underground.
The proud resistance of the Binab population against the attacks of Sheikh Ubaydullah Shamzini
Throughout history, enemies have always tried to seize Azerbaijan’s valuable lands. In modern history, the Silurians (Armenians and Assyrians) once, and the Kurds twice, occupied Azerbaijani territory and attempted to establish their own governments there. However, all three of these delusional occupiers were forced to surrender to the unbreakable will of the South Azerbaijani Turkic people.
In 1880, Sheikh Ubaydullah raised an uprising with the aim of seizing Azerbaijani territory. At first, he captured the cities of Savujbulag (Mahabad) and Goshachay (Miyandoab). Sheikh Ubaydullah's soldiers killed almost all the inhabitants of the city of Goshachay, committing one of the most brutal massacres in modern history. Then, they looted all the goods and belongings of the population of this city and completely burned the city. After these events, Sheikh Ubaydullah's army split into two to seize Urmu (Urmiya) on the one hand and Tabriz on the other. However, they were met with fierce resistance from the South Azerbaijani Turks both in Urmia and along the route at Binab before reaching Tabriz. Sheikh Ubaydullah’s forces were defeated in both Urmia and Binab by the unyielding will of the South Azerbaijani Turks. Apart from the atrocities they committed in Goshachay, no trace of them remains in history.
The city of Binab, which still protects Azerbaijan and its Azerbaijaniness
The people of this city have never forgotten the proud memory of their ancestors’ brave resistance against Sheikh Ubaydullah’s bloodthirsty and criminal forces. On that day, they not only saved their own city but also protected Tabriz from the threat of occupation. Today, the true descendants of those heroic ancestors wholeheartedly defend Azerbaijan’s history, language, culture, and land. Despite over a century of assimilation policies implemented by central governments aimed at erasing the language, history, and culture of the South Azerbaijani Turks and forcibly assimilating them into Persian identity, the history, language, and culture of Azerbaijan still thrive in this city.
As we have mentioned in our previous articles, as long as customs, fashions, and traditions such as Azerbaijani dance and music, performances by Azerbaijani enthusiasts, performances by ashugs, bayatis, Azerbaijani mughamat, fashions of the last Tuesday of the year, Novruz holiday fashions, sayachis, tekemchis, chilla night, Koroghlu epic live in a city, it means that Azerbaijan still lives in that city. Today, South Azerbaijani Turks, especially the younger generation, despite all the obstacles and strictness of the government, seem determined to preserve their Azerbaijaniness, Turkishness, culture, history, and language. The new generation, which stands firm against the cultural, economic, and political pressures of the central government and tries to protect the material and spiritual assets of Azerbaijan, promises a bright future for South Azerbaijan. Compared to state institutions that are trying to erase Azerbaijani culture, their opportunities are very few and limited, but they have an unshakable will. As a result of that same will, they once defeated the bloodthirsty and cruel people of Sheikh Ubaydullah, and today they are trying to protect their identity and material and spiritual assets. Despite more than a hundred years of state-sponsored assimilation policies, today our language, history, and culture are alive and even flourishing in this city. We can see this in the daily lives of the people of this city, in the language they speak, in the holidays and festivities they celebrate, in their weddings and funerals, even in the tables they set and the carpets they weave. We see this especially in the high value that the new generation places on the Mother Language and Azerbaijani culture. This means that Binab is not only a city of history but also a vibrant Azerbaijani city today.
